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Bush Introduction
Introduction
Screening Plants
Flowering Shrubs
Colorful Shrubs
Back to
Landscape 101
The first
step of a successful landscape is a good design. A key
element of a good design is the proper setting of shrubs in
the landscape. Each plant has its own requirements for the
amount of sun, soil type, drainage, and cold winter wind
exposure. Each shrub should be planted with its mature
height and size in mind, not what it looks like in its pot
at the nursery. The successful landscape first starts with
an excellent plan. It is also cost effective to do it
correctly the first time. A North Metro Atlanta plant list
is provided here. The plants are grouped by size and sun
exposure requirements.
PLANT
INSTALLATION
Once a plant
is selected based on its full growth size, its sun and wind
exposure, and its soil condition and drainage, it is time to
plant. The best time for planting shrubs is in the fall,
followed by the winter, and lastly, spring. Planting plants
in the heat of the summer requires experience and excellent
care. Most soil in North Metro Atlanta is heavy red clay. It
sticks together like glue and does not drain well. The clay
can become as hard as rock, and sometimes requires a pick
axe and a great deal of strength to dig an adequate size
planting hole. This clay not only drains poorly, but
prevents the roots from spreading to create a healthy plant
that can soak up enough water and nutrients. A hole in such
hard clay can form an outdoor bathtub, filling with water
during a heavy rain and drowning the plant. A healthy shrub
has a well developed root system which requires water,
oxygen, and nutrients. Proper installation, watering,
pruning, and fertilization make for a healthy plant.
1. Dig
the hole at least twice as wide as the plant's root ball.
The harder the soil, the wider the hole should be.
2.
Amend the soil. With the soil sitting in a pile from your
hole excavation, pour on soil conditioner, mushroom compost,
or cow manure onto the pile and mix it with a shovel. After
properly positioning the prepared plant, use this mixture
when refilling the hole.
3.
Prepare the plant's root ball. For container grown plants,
the dirt and roots at the edge of the container ball need to
be loosened to prevent the plant from becoming root bound.
The edge of the roots and soil should be loose enough to
allow the roots to spread into the surrounding soil. If this
is not done, the roots can become trapped in a hardened root
ball.
4.
For ball and burlap plants do not remove the burlap. After
the plant is planted, open the burlap at the top of the
plant and pull the burlap away from the trunk. Leaving
the burlap wrapped at the base may suffocate the plant.
Removing the burlap before planting may result in the dirt
in the root ball separating and breaking the root.
This kind of root damage may not be readily visible, but it
can kill the plant. For this reason the plant should be
carried by the root ball and not by the plant or tree trunk.
The weight of the dirt may cause the plant roots to break
inside the ball, thus killing the plant.
5.
Don't plant the plant to deep. Adding dirt to the top of the
plants existing soil may suffocate the plant's crown and
kill the plant. Often times, it is better to leave the plant
an inch or two above the surface and slope the dirt up to
the plant's root ball. This can improve drainage, and
insures that the plant crown is not buried, which is a fatal
mistake.
6.
Water plants thoroughly after installation. Air pockets in
the dirt around the root ball may result in dried out roots.
Adding root starter to the water can be essential for larger
shrubs and trees, and will benefit plants of all sizes.
Newly installed materials should be watered daily for two
weeks. Plants installed in the spring, when flowers and new
leaves are emerging, need extra water. Plants planted in the
summer need extra water due to extreme evaporation loss.
Plants planted in hot, dry soils can suck the water right
out of a root ball and kill the plant quickly if not watered
immediately after planting. A few hours in 95 degree heat
can cause severe plant damage.
7.
Fertilize plants at the time of installation with a small
handful of 10-10-10 mixed in with the soil. Time release
fertilizer pellets may be used, touching the root ball a few
inches below the soil level, to provide continuous feeding.
For the first three years, fertilize in early spring and
late summer with 12-6-6 or 21-3-12, timed release.
PLANT
FERTILIZATION
Plants can be
fertilized with liquid, granule, and time release granule
fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers provide quick impact. Time
release fertilizers are more expensive, but provide
nutrients for up to nine months. What is important to know
is when to fertilize, how to fertilize, and at what
strength.
Over
fertilization can badly burn or kill a plant. Fertilizer
should be spread around the plant. It should never be dumped
on the plants center, or crown. Flowering shrubs should not
be fertilized prior to or during the flowers bloom period.
This may curtail or eliminate the flower's bloom.
What
fertilizer should you use? Fertilizer content is described
in three numbers like 13-13-13 or 5-10-5. These numbers tell
you the amounts of the three primary nutrients in the
fertilizer. The first number is the percentage of nitrogen
(N). Nitrogen helps the plant grow more leaves and branches,
while at the same time giving the leaves a healthy glow. The
second number is the percentage of Phosphorous (P).
Phosphorous encourages strong root formation and good
flowering. To produce flowers and fall berries, use a type
of product with a higher phosphorous ratio like 5-10-5 or
6-12-12. The third number is for potassium or potash.
Potassium promotes hardiness, disease resistance, and plant
strength.
Fertilization
is most important when transplanting for plant establishment
and during its first year. We like a granular time release
fertilizer called Osmocote. It is great on pansies and other
annuals, and just about everything else. Some plant
requirements for fertilizer are greater than others. A few
plants react negatively to fertilization, but for most it is
very beneficial.
A good
fertilization schedule begins in April for most shrubs,
except spring flowering shrubs. Begin spring flowering
shrubs fertilization after flowering. Fertilization in
February, for example, may push new growth which could be
killed by March or early April freezes. Refertilize in late
summer. Fertilizing in the heat of mid summer may overstress
a shrub. This policy excludes annuals and perennials.
Plants such
as azaleas, rhododendrons, and gardenias like Miracid
fertilizer. Annuals and perennials should be fertilized
every 4 to 6 weeks during their growing season. Pansies like
Osmocote fertilizer, or fertilizer with "Nitrate Nitrogen",
which can be absorbed during cooler weather. Yellowing
leaves on a plant may indicate a nutrient deficiency. An
application of liquid fertilizer is the quickest way to get
the plants the nutrients it needs.
Plant
absorption of nutrients is effected by soil PH. Knowing the
proper PH for a plant is important. Changing a soils PH to
the plants needed PH is very beneficial. However, changing
the PH in the wrong direction can be fatal. A soil test done
by your county extension service will guide you in the right
direction. It is best not to guess.
Introduction
Screening Plants
Flowering Shrubs
Colorful Shrubs
Back to
Landscape 101
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